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November 12-25

Change Is Fine!Noelle Chorney

Published Thursday November 12, 05:28 pm
Izumi goes from good to great with a menu shift
IZUMI3010 Arlington Ave.306-652-9911Sometimes ownership changes in restaurants can signal the end of an era. In the case of Izumi, the change of ownership — and the addition of Korean menu items in particular — just means more of a good thing.I had always enjoyed the Japanese food at Izumi, but I discovered about a year ago that the new owners are Korean, and they’ve introduced a small but mighty list of Korean menu items. You can go for bibimbap, for example, the classic stone-bowl stir-fry on rice accompanied by kimchi, pickled bean sprouts and a fried egg on top. That hot bowl makes the rice deliciously crunchy around the edges, and the dish stays oven-hot right to the last delicious morsel.There’s also japchae (the classic glass noodle and beef stir-fry), a seafood and green onion pancake (topokki), and a thick rice-noodle stir-fry with sweet and spicy sauce (which a friend of mine ordered, fondly remembering her visit to Korea years ago, exclaiming, “This is the best comfort food!”).I’ve had great luck by simply showing up and ordering one of the daily specials. Just recently I had my world rocked by a spicy tofu and pork belly dish, s

Back Then, AgainJason Foster

Published Thursday November 12, 05:29 pm
Our beer geek takes a second trip through classic brewing history
Last issue I explored a few styles of beer that have long histories, describing what they might have tasted like back in the time of their origins — and this issue we’re going to do it again, with some other classic recipes that have evolved over time. It’s more a fun exercise than a scientific one (none of us were around to actually taste the originals back in the day, after all) but with some research on the processes and ingredients of the time, plus the smatterings of records left behind, I’m pretty confident we can come up with a reasonable facsimile of some classic beer styles.In the first round I picked some fairly low-hanging fruit in porters, stouts, and scotch ale: All of these have fairly decent historical records, and there’ve also been recent efforts to re-create the original versions of them.This time, let’s look at some beers that are a bit harder to imagine in their original state.We’ll kick things off with India pale ale, which was a strong pale ale specifically designed to withstand the length of time it had to survive before being consumed. The extra hops and alcohol were meant to help it survive the two- to three-month v